While flour, sugar and some types of fat are the characterizing ingredients of most cookies, it’s the mighty egg that brings the dough together. That’s why it is so challenging to replace eggs, but bakers are doing it.
“Eggs bring important functionality to cookies, providing tenderness and chewiness, serving as binders and emulsifiers, and contributing to flavor, richness and color,” said Christine Nowakowski, category innovation advisor for indulgence, Cargill. “Eggs can also serve as leaveners, enabling cookies to rise slightly and become lighter in texture.”
For all their functional benefits, there are several reasons why formulators may look to partial or full egg replacement options. Pricing volatility often tops the list, as avian flu outbreaks continue to challenge egg supplies.
“Commercial bakers are always looking for cost reductions for the total formula,” said Michael Chancafe, senior bakery applications scientist, J&K Ingredients. “Switching to an egg replacement technology can reduce the cost of eggs by 50% in most applications.”
Dietary considerations, ranging from allergen concerns to vegan-friendly formulations, are other reasons why brands might opt to replace or eliminate eggs. There’s also a growing desire to reduce reliance on animal-derived ingredients. ADM proprietary research shows that more than half of global consumers are moving toward a flexitarian diet.
“They are trying more plant-based foods while still eating animal-based products,” said Amanda Bromfield, technical manager, milling and baking solutions at ADM. “There is opportunity for bakers to develop offerings that join the range of baked goods with vegan-suitable or plant-based claims.”
With most cookies, eggs tend to be a minor ingredient compared to flour, sugar and fat. But when eggs are fully eliminated, the baked cookies are just not the same. When a formulator is trying to replace eggs in cookie dough, the best approach is to map out all the functions of the eggs in the formulation.
“This is most easily done by making a control with eggs and a negative control without eggs,” Nowakowski said. “Assess the differences between the formulas and focus on replacing those ‘jobs.’ ”
This approach minimizes costs and any unintended color and flavor consequences. It also prevents over-complicating the formula.
“A good starting point is to experiment with replacement levels, such as 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%, along with evaluations and cost comparisons,” said Laurie Scanlin, principal scientist, Ardent Mills. “Also test for the optimal incorporation method, such as adding the egg replacer to dry ingredients or hydrating it for use alongside liquid eggs or other liquid components.”
Some cookies rely on the functionality of eggs more than others. In filled sandwich cookies, soy lecithin can provide enough functionality in both the cookie and the cream. Meringue cookies, on the other hand, have long been all about whipped egg whites. Advancements in ingredient technology have found that the liquid from soaked chickpeas — now known as aquafaba — functions and even looks similar to liquid egg whites.
“When considering egg replacement, you may need to target one or two of the benefits of the egg,” said Brook Carson, vice president of research and development, Manildra Group USA. “That is why multiple egg replacers are available on the market.”
Many commercial egg replacers are a blend of ingredients to provide numerous functions. They tend to consist of plant-based proteins, fats and hydrocolloids, along with other purposeful compounds. The challenge here is that this makes for a longer ingredient list. That’s why it is best to identify the critical function of eggs in a formulation to simplify the replacement process.
“Egg replacement solutions may contain upwards of 10 ingredients, which may be a disadvantage to simple labels and ingredient statements,” Scanlin said. “Ardent Mills’ egg replacer is made with just four ingredients, including chickpeas.”
This article is an excerpt from the February 2025 issue of Baking & Snack. To read the entire feature on Egg Replacement, click here.