Nicole Rees’ love of baking began at the age of 4, grocery shopping each morning with her grandfather.

“He would buy me whatever I wanted out of the bakery case and would let me eat it on the way home — before breakfast,” she recalled. “It was our little secret, and we never told my grandmother about it.”

Ms. Rees began baking at age 8, and while she was always passionate about it, her career began elsewhere. She graduated from the University of Kansas with a bachelor’s degree in literature and a minor in art history, and afterwards worked in an art museum. 

“My manager knew something was off because I would cater my own events at the museum, while no one else brought food,” she said. “So, food is technically a second career for me.”

Ms. Rees began her now 27-year food career as a pastry chef and baker in New Jersey and New York. She then became editor of a food magazine, as well as a recipe developer and food stylist. 

Ms. Rees eventually shifted into food science and has since served as a food technologist, research manager, business development manager and director of global applications. Currently, she works as product director for AB Mauri North America. She also serves the Cereal & Grains Association’s milling and baking division in a variety of roles, as well as the Society of Bakery Women as treasurer. 

“Because it took me a while to find the right career and because I’m grateful for the opportunities I’ve had along the way, I have a strong desire to ensure that others new in their careers find their own way,” she explained.

Ms. Rees sees fostering demand for baked goods as a big challenge the industry faces, as consumer concerns around carbs, added sugars and gluten put pressure on bakers to hit a desired wellness profile while still delivering a quality sensory experience. 

“Overall, we risk consumers spending their calories and dollars elsewhere,” she said. “I believe the key is to ensure that sensory experience holds up,” she said. “In the end, products grow beyond the intended consumer segment when this happens.”

What functionality can enzymes provide to baked goods? What are some common uses? 

Enzymes have a wide range of use in bakery products, from improving machinability to ensuring tolerance and strength throughout the baking process. It’s rare to find a product that doesn’t use enzymes. Almost all breads that cross a retail scanner are produced with an enzyme solution to help them remain fresh and soft. 

How has bakery dependence on enzymes increased in recent years? Why?

During the COVID pandemic, enzyme usage expanded when other ingredients, such DATEM, mono- and diglycerides, gluten, hydrocolloids and oil, were in short supply or prohibitively expensive. Because there are so many uses for enzymes and enzymes aren’t subject to the same market volatility, bakers have come to rely on them more and more. The concentration of enzymes is a huge benefit. Even after supply chain issues lifted, the savings from shipping and warehousing enzymes kept bakers from switching back. 

What are some of the latest applications of enzymes in baked goods?

Recently, we launched a freshness technology that gives breads superior resilience and springiness. This same enzyme solution generates sweetness, allowing bakers to reduce sugar in their formula for cost savings. Our new Softase Palladium Bun 245, for example, gives consumers the softness they love without having to search the store shelf for a package that hasn’t been dinged or squished. That’s a win-win for everyone.

How can enzymes promote the texture quality of baked goods?

Consumers have different preferences for texture regionally and by type of product. Enzymes are great tools for tweaking texture to get the exact preference desired. As bakeries seek to differentiate their products in the marketplace through sensory experience, enzymes will have a key role to play.  

How can enzymes be used to achieve a clean label?

Clean label is usually dictated by consumer preference. The classic idea is that all ingredients on a label should be recognizable to shoppers. I think we are entering a new era with clean label as the idea of defining “minimally processed” vs. “ultra-processed” takes hold. The question isn’t whether enzymes can help, but whether we are burdening consumers with definitions that are hard to understand.  

What must bakers account for when incorporating enzymes into their products?

Enzyme activity is subject to the environment. Any changes in process time, temperature or substrate will influence enzymes. A dough that comes out of the mixer 15°F warmer than normal could double the enzyme activity.